Okay so.
I avoided retinol for like three years because everyone made it sound scary. The peeling! The redness! The purging phase!
But then I turned 28 and started noticing these tiny lines around my eyes that wouldn't budge with my regular moisturizer. My dermatologist literally said "it's time" and handed me a prescription.
That was six months ago.
Now? I'm obsessed. But I wish someone had told me what to actually expect week by week instead of just "it gets worse before it gets better."
So here's my brutally honest timeline of what happened when I started retinol - the good, the flaky, and the "why is my face angry at me" moments.
What Even IS Retinol? (The Non-Boring Version)
Right so retinol is basically vitamin A that speeds up your skin cell turnover. Think of it like hitting fast-forward on your skin's natural renewal process.
Your skin normally sheds dead cells and makes new ones over like 28 days. Retinol cranks that up to about 14 days.
Which sounds great until you realize that means all those dead cells are gonna peace out at once. Hence the flaking situation we'll talk about later.
The magic happens because retinol:
- Boosts collagen production (bye fine lines)
- Unclogs pores from the inside out
- Fades dark spots and evens skin tone
- Makes your skin texture smoother
Basically it's the closest thing to a magic potion that actually has science backing it up.
Dr. Shereene Idriss breaks down the retinol basics perfectly. She's who I watched obsessively before starting.
Week 1-2: The Honeymoon Phase
Not gonna lie, the first week was... fine?
I started with 0.25% retinol (my derm said go low and slow). Applied it three nights a week after cleansing. Moisturizer on top.
My skin actually looked pretty good. Maybe even glowy?
I remember texting my friend like "idk what everyone's talking about, this is easy."
Lol.
Famous last words.
Pro tip I learned: This calm period is when you should be locking down your sunscreen routine because retinol makes you way more sun-sensitive. Like SPF 50 minimum, every single day, even if it's cloudy.
Week 3-4: The Purge (It's Real Y'all)
Week three hit different.
My skin started feeling tight. Then came the flaking around my nose and chin. Not cute little flakes either - full on lizard skin situation.
And the breakouts? Ugh.
I got these tiny bumps all over my forehead that weren't there before. Freaked out and almost quit.
But here's what nobody tells you: That's literally the retinol working. It's pushing all the gunk that was hiding deep in your pores up to the surface.
The purge phase sucks but it means it's doing its job. Most people purge for 2-6 weeks depending on how congested your skin was to begin with.
What helped me survive:
- Scaling back to twice a week instead of three
- Using a hydrating serum underneath
- Not picking at the flakes (hardest thing ever)
- Reminding myself this was temporary
This creator's purge timeline video made me feel so much better. Like okay I'm not alone in this flaky mess.
Week 5-8: Things Start Shifting
Around week six something changed.
The flaking calmed down. My skin stopped freaking out every time I applied it. The purge breakouts started clearing.
And I noticed my skin texture felt smoother when I washed my face. Like noticeably smoother.
The tiny bumps on my forehead? Gone. My pores looked smaller (retinol doesn't actually shrink pores but makes them look smaller by keeping them clean).
This is when I bumped up to using it every other night. My skin could finally handle it.
I also started mixing my retinol with moisturizer to buffer it - game changer for sensitive areas. Just put moisturizer on first, wait a few minutes, then apply retinol on top. Takes longer to see results but way gentler.
Month 3: Okay Now I Get The Hype
Three months in is when I looked in the mirror and was like... wait.
My skin looked different. Not dramatically different but definitely better.
The fine lines around my eyes? Softer. My skin tone? More even. That rough texture on my cheeks? Smooth.
My makeup sat better on my skin too. Foundation didn't cling to dry patches or settle into lines as much.
I started getting compliments. "Your skin looks so good, what are you using?" became a regular thing.
This is also when I learned about combining retinol with other acne-fighting ingredients carefully. You can't just throw everything at your face at once or you'll destroy your moisture barrier. Trust me I tried.
Month 4-6: The Real Results Show Up
By month five I was fully converted.
My skin texture was smoother than it had been in years. The hyperpigmentation from old breakouts? Faded like 60-70%. Not completely gone but way less noticeable.
And the fine lines - they didn't disappear (retinol isn't magic) but they were definitely less deep. My forehead lines especially.
I could use it every single night without irritation. My skin had fully adjusted.
The glow though. That's what people noticed most. My skin just looked healthier and more radiant. Even on days I didn't wear makeup.
Dr. Mamina's six-month transformation timeline is crazy inspiring. Shows what consistent use actually does.
The Stuff Nobody Tells You
Real talk - here's what I wish I knew before starting:
Your skin will get worse before better. Like guaranteed. The purge is real and it's gonna test your patience. Stick with it.
Start slow or regret it. I tried jumping to every night in week two and my face literally burned. Low percentage (0.25% or 0.3%), 2-3 times a week max for the first month.
Sunscreen is non-negotiable. Retinol makes you photosensitive. Going outside without SPF is basically undoing all your progress. I keep one in my bag, my car, everywhere.
Budget options work. You don't need the $80 fancy brand. The drugstore retinol alternatives have the same active ingredient. I use CeraVe's retinol serum and it's like $15.
Consistency matters more than strength. Using 0.3% retinol every other night beats using 1% retinol once a week. Your skin needs regular exposure to adjust and see results.
You can't use it everywhere. Skip your eyelids and the corners of your nose/mouth. Those areas are too sensitive and will get super irritated.
It takes TIME. Like minimum 3 months to see real changes. Anyone promising results in two weeks is lying. Cell turnover doesn't work that fast.
What Percentage Should You Actually Start With?
This confused me so much at first.
Here's the breakdown:
0.25%-0.3%: Perfect for beginners and sensitive skin. This is where I started. Gentle enough to use 2-3x a week right away.
0.5%-1%: Mid-range strength. Good if you've used retinol before or your skin adjusted to the lower percentage. Most people end up here long-term.
1%-2%: Strong stuff. Usually prescription-strength (like Retin-A). Only go here if a dermatologist recommends it and you've built up tolerance.
Don't be a hero and start with the strongest one. Your face will hate you.
I spent three months at 0.25% before moving up to 0.5%. Now I'm at 1% and my skin's totally fine with it. But it took almost a year to build up to that.
The Products I Actually Use
Okay so my current routine that works:
Cleanser: Something gentle that doesn't strip my skin. I use CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser.
Retinol: CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum (0.3% encapsulated retinol). Costs like $16 at Target and works just as well as the expensive ones I tried.
Moisturizer: Heavy duty hydration is key. I layer The Ordinary's Natural Moisturizing Factors over the retinol.
Sunscreen: La Roche-Posay Anthelios SPF 50. Every. Single. Morning.
That's it. I keep it simple because adding too many actives while using retinol is asking for trouble.
On nights I don't use retinol (I take 1-2 nights off per week), I'll sometimes use other professional-grade skincare treatments but never on the same night as retinol.
Common Mistakes I Made (So You Don't Have To)
Using it with other actives too soon. I tried using vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night during week two. My skin freaked out. Wait until your skin fully adjusts to retinol before adding other actives.
Not moisturizing enough. I thought using less moisturizer would help with the purge. Wrong. Your moisture barrier needs all the support it can get. Layer that moisturizer thick.
Applying it to wet skin. This makes it penetrate deeper which sounds good but actually causes more irritation. Always apply to completely dry skin. I wait 10 minutes after cleansing.
Using harsh exfoliants. Put away your physical scrubs and glycolic acid while starting retinol. Your skin is already exfoliating itself aggressively. Adding more is overkill.
Expecting instant results. I kept checking the mirror daily for changes. Don't do that. Take photos instead - you'll actually see the difference over time.
Quitting during the purge. So many people bail at week three when the flaking and breakouts hit. That's literally the worst time to quit because you're right before the good stuff starts.
How To Make The Purge Phase Suck Less
Because it's gonna happen and you need a survival plan.
Hydrate like crazy. I'm talking hyaluronic acid serum, thick moisturizer, maybe even a hydrating mask once a week. Your skin is working overtime and needs moisture.
Don't pick. I know the flakes are tempting. Don't touch them. Picking makes it worse and can cause scarring. Let them shed naturally.
Use a gentle physical exfoliant. Wait hear me out - a soft washcloth with your cleanser can help remove the dead skin gently. Not a scrub, just light pressure with a cloth.
Cut back frequency if needed. If your skin is really angry, drop down to once or twice a week. Better to go slow than damage your moisture barrier.
Keep makeup minimal. Foundation clings to flaky skin and makes it more obvious. I stuck to minimal makeup looks during the worst of it - tinted moisturizer and concealer max.
Remember it's temporary. The purge phase typically lasts 4-6 weeks. Mark it on your calendar. Having an end date in sight helps.
When You'll Actually See Results
Here's the realistic timeline based on what you're treating:
Skin texture/smoothness: 4-6 weeks. This was the first thing I noticed improving.
Fine lines: 8-12 weeks minimum. The deeper lines take even longer - like 6 months.
Hyperpigmentation/dark spots: 8-12 weeks. Mine took about 10 weeks to start fading noticeably.
Acne: 12-16 weeks. After you get through the purge, your skin starts staying clearer long-term.
Overall skin quality: 12-24 weeks. That "glowy healthy skin" look takes time to build.
The key is patience. I know that's annoying to hear but it's true. This isn't like those viral beauty tricks that work overnight. It's a long game.
Can You Use It With Other Products?
Yess but carefully.
Safe to combine:
- Hyaluronic acid (actually helps buffer retinol)
- Niacinamide (I use this in the morning)
- Ceramides and peptides
- Vitamin C (but use in the morning, retinol at night)
Don't combine:
- AHAs/BHAs (glycolic acid, salicylic acid) - too irritating together
- Benzoyl peroxide (makes retinol less effective)
- Other retinoids (why would you even)
- Physical exfoliants while adjusting
I learned this the hard way when I tried using salicylic acid in the morning and retinol at night. My skin barrier was destroyed for like two weeks.
Now I keep mornings simple - gentle cleanser, hydrating Korean skincare essentials, sunscreen. Save the actives for nighttime.
Is Prescription Strength Worth It?
Honestly? Depends.
I started with over-the-counter retinol and it worked great. After six months my derm offered to switch me to prescription tretinoin (0.025%).
The difference is prescription retinoids are stronger and work faster. But they're also more irritating and expensive.
Over-the-counter retinol takes longer but it's gentler and way cheaper. You'll get similar results eventually, just on a slower timeline.
My advice: Start with drugstore retinol. If you're not seeing results after 6-8 months of consistent use, then consider asking your derm about prescription strength.
No point jumping straight to the nuclear option if the gentler version works.
The Bottom Line
Six months in and I'm never stopping retinol.
My skin looks better than it has in years. The texture is smooth, my tone is more even, and those fine lines that sent me into a panic? Way less noticeable.
But it took patience. And going through the flaky uncomfortable purge phase. And resisting the urge to quit when my skin looked worse before it looked better.
If you're thinking about starting retinol, just do it. But go in with realistic expectations:
- Start with a low percentage (0.25%-0.3%)
- Use it 2-3 nights a week for the first month
- Expect a purge phase around week 3-4
- Don't see real results until month 3-4
- Wear sunscreen religiously
- Be patient and consistent
It's not a quick fix. It's a commitment. But it's the only skincare ingredient with actual science proving it works for anti-aging and skin texture.
Worth it? Absolutely.
Would I do it again knowing about the purge phase? Yes. Because the results are that good.
Now excuse me while I go apply my retinol and pretend I'm not aging. ✨
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